Arriving in Dar es Salaam

Just as when we were arriving in Bulawayo, both of us were a little bit apprehensive about arriving in Dar es Salaam. The only reason to be here was so that I could see if the house I lived in from age four to seven still existed, as we thought it might, having looked at Google Earth. But on the whole I am not keen on visiting very large conurbations especially ones that have grown suddenly huge, as Dar has. Also we both knew it was very hot and sticky all year round: temperature in the high twenties, and thirties, humidity around 70%-80%. Of course, when I was little I hadn't noticed this at all, and played outside in the garden quite happily.  Peter was also not looking forward to the heat and humidity. But he had extra reasons to be apprehensive. He had worked in Dar for a couple of years in the early eighties (just before he met me) when the economy was in very, very bad shape. So he was still expecting a depressed and depressing city.

Worse, we were to arrive on a night flight that had left Harare at 2.20 in the morning and arrive in Dar two and bit hours later. So we were going to get very little sleep to improve our tempers.

I also thought I would have forgotten the little Swahili I'd learnt because I had had no time to study while in Botswana and Zimbabwe. (We had wondered if we would be bored and had brought all kinds of reading matter and podcasts to amuse us. As it turns out we needed have bothered! Bored? No chance. It's been very full-on!)

Things looked up, almost at once: in the airport. The first official we met while buying our visas was also not enjoying being up so early and was stony faced. We had to hand in the passports at a official window and wait on one side while they were processed. A kindly member of staff near the window asked me in hesitant English how old I was. I muttered, 'Oh God, I'm so tired.' And then mustering all my remaining wits said carefully, 'Nina miaka sitini na tisa. [I am 69.]' And I was rewarded by a huge smile and a 'Hongera! [Congratulations!]'. I began to relax.

We were met by the hotel shuttle service, and at that point Peter relaxed completely - well, suddenly seemed wide awake, so impressed was he by what he could see of the good road from the airport (and good traffic manners) and all the thriving businesses all the way into the city. It was all the more striking, I guess, after Zimbabwe's wrecked economy.

 Things got better and better. The hotel is lovely: the registration desk is on the 20th floor of a high rise - and our room is on the 18th with big windows. The views are wonderful. The harbour is spread out before us. Here is Peter talking to a couple of the hotel staff - severely dressed in their uniform but anything but severe in reality. They are very amused at attempts to speak Swahili, but also hugely supportive.

And then, after quite a sound and deep sleep, we went out for a walk and found some grilled street food. Grilled meat is a kind of staple of any menu in Tanzania, at least on the coast. These kebabs were very good. The grilled banana on the other hand was a bit disappointing. 








 We both really like it here - at least in this part of city centre Dar. There are a huge variety of buildings, colonial from the 19th, let alone the 20th century. New high rise. Trees shading the streets. And a relaxed lot of people sitting about, selling on street, or just going about their business.Yes, there is both poverty and riches and everything in-between, but that is city life. Plenty of that in Edinburgh, for instance.

 In the evening we went and took a walk along the harbour, admiring the architecture, the people sitting enjoying a conversation, the sweet tempered street sellers.

One of them asked Peter if he was interested in some shirts - quite a small size. He indicated his stomach (and I stroked it) and everyone collapsed with laughter.

I also enjoyed the stylishness of the clothes - both men and women. But more about that in another blog.

 Oh and the heat and humidity isn't as bad as we thought. They are there all right but so is the sea breeze. And there is always a breeze on that balcony on the 20th floor of our hotel.

So as the sun set and the birds started to roost, we went home happy and looked forward to the next day when we would go and see if we could find my childhood home which we thought would be just down the road.